Baltimore
Floor Refinishing

Before & After Floor Work in BaltimoreDrag the slider. That's the same floor.

Eight kinds of job, from a carpet lift to a burst pipe, with what each one actually involves. Most of these are floors other people had written off.

About these pictures: they illustrate what each type of job involves and the condition we start from — they are examples, not photographs of past customers’ homes. The descriptions of the work are exactly how we do it.

The same bedroom with the carpet gone and the original red oak sanded and refinished to a warm satin
Wall-to-wall carpet pulled back to reveal grey, staple-dotted original oak floorboards beneath
BeforeAfter

Carpet lifted, original floor refinished

Rowhome bedroom — original floor, never previously refinished

Wood
Narrow-strip red oak
Finish
Natural, satin

Carpet, underlay and tack strips lifted, then several hundred staples pulled by hand: the slow part, and the part that decides how the floor sands. Three grit passes, edges done by hand, two coats of satin finish. Most Baltimore rowhomes still have their original oak under the carpet.

The same bedroom floor with damaged boards replaced, sanded flat and refinished
Black water staining and cupped floorboards spreading out from under a cast-iron radiator
BeforeAfter

Radiator leak — boards replaced

Rowhome bedroom, floor beneath a cast-iron radiator

Wood
Narrow-strip red oak
Finish
Natural, satin

A slow radiator leak had blackened the wood and cupped the board edges. Black staining that has reached the wood does not sand out. The affected boards were cut out and replaced, the new lengths staggered so the joints do not line up, then the whole room sanded flat and refinished.

The same dining room with the floor flat, refinished in a warm walnut-toned satin
Hardwood floorboards buckled into a raised ridge across a dining room floor
BeforeAfter

Buckled floor after a burst pipe

Rowhome dining room

Wood
Red oak
Finish
Special Walnut, satin

Boards had tented clear of the subfloor. The moisture source was found and stopped first and the floor left to dry properly before anything else. Repairing a floor that is still wet leaves it crowned once it finally dries. Then the lifted boards were replaced, the floor sanded flat and finished in Special Walnut.

The same landing with replaced boards blended in and the floor refinished in an even warm stain
Dark near-black pet stains soaked into floorboards on an upstairs landing
BeforeAfter

Pet stains — boards cut out and laced in

Upstairs landing outside two bedrooms

Wood
Narrow-strip red oak
Finish
Early American, satin

The staining had gone through the finish and into the wood, so sanding will not remove it. The affected boards were replaced and laced into the surrounding courses, then the whole landing refinished in Early American so the new wood disappears into the old rather than sitting there as a patch.

The same boards close up after filling and refinishing, with only fine hairline joints left
Close detail of wide dark gaps opened between old narrow oak floorboards
BeforeAfter

Winter gaps filled

Rowhome upper floor — close detail

Wood
Narrow-strip red oak
Finish
Natural, satin

Dry winter heat shrinks boards and opens the joints. These were filled after the boards had settled rather than at their widest, then sanded and refinished. Worth knowing: gaps that close again by themselves in summer are seasonal movement and are usually best left alone.

The same living room floor after a screen and recoat, with one even satin sheen throughout
A dull worn traffic path across a living room floor, finish worn through to bare wood
BeforeAfter

Screen and recoat — no full sand

Rowhome front room with bay window

Wood
Red oak
Finish
Satin

The finish was worn through along the traffic path but the wood underneath was sound, so this did not need a full sand. The floor was screened back and recoated in a day for a fraction of the cost. A floor only has so many full sandings in it, and using one up when a recoat will do is money wasted.

The same staircase with treads sanded and refinished and the risers repainted clean white
Staircase with red oak treads worn bare in the middle and chipped paint on the risers
BeforeAfter

Stair treads refinished

Rowhome main staircase

Wood
Red oak treads
Finish
Satin treads, painted risers

Treads worn bare through the middle. Stairs are sanded by hand, because a drum sander cannot reach a tread, and the risers were repainted afterwards. This is why stairs are quoted per step rather than by the square foot: no two staircases take the same time.

The same wide-plank heart pine floor sanded back and refinished to a warm amber satin
Grimy, paint-spattered original wide-plank heart pine floor worn grey in places
BeforeAfter

Heart pine brought back

Rowhome upper floor — original wide-plank pine

Wood
Wide-plank heart pine
Finish
Natural, satin

Original heart pine under decades of grime and old paint spatter. Pine is softer than oak and there is less thickness to work with, so it is sanded more carefully and with finer grits. Finished natural to keep the amber colour rather than staining over it.

Not sure which one your floor is?

Most floors are more than one of these at once — gaps and a worn finish, or a water stain in a room that also needs a full refinish. Send a few photos and you’ll get a straight read on which it is, including when the honest answer is that a recoat will do and a full sand would be money wasted. Pricing for both is on the cost page.

Send a photo of yours

A couple of phone pictures is usually enough for a realistic range the same working day.

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